The Stars Aligned Blanket is a free pattern here on the blog! Read on to learn about the design inspiration and all materials needed to create this crochet blanket.
Copyright Disclosure
This pattern is for your own personal use. No unauthorized reproduction, in whole or in part (i.e. copying and pasting this pattern into your own document, altering this pattern in any way and calling it your own, etc.), or distribution of this pattern or content (i.e. sharing this pattern in its whole form on your own blog) is allowed. You can use this blog post in blog round-ups. I give permission to sell your items made from this pattern. Please credit “While They Dream” in your listings. The pattern and all photos are the property of While They Dream. You are welcome to share my patterns across all social media forms as long as you link back to my blog directly.
Inspiration
I love quilts, but I don't do a lot of sewing. Maybe someday. For now I just enjoy crocheting quilt style blankets. The Stars Aligned Blanket is the perfect blanket to go stash diving with. For my own version I am using colors from my 2023 Nature and Nostalgia Yarn Clubs.
The inspiration for this blanket is based off of this super scrappy looking sewn quilt. Notice how all of the squares are patterned? I thought that using variegated yarns from my two yarn clubs would be a perfect way to represent the scrappiness of this quilt.
Due to the fact that I am creating new colors every month of 2023, I have no idea what the end result of my quilt will actually look like. When I created my Birds of a Feather Blanket in the beginning of 2022 I had to let go and learn to trust the process of "blindly creating" throughout the year. I used bare yarn, paired with a monthly yarn club color inspired by birds from from Made by Hailey Bailey. I never knew what color was coming next.
The Birds of a Feather Blanket is what got me hooked on the process of trusting a future outcome. Since creating that blanket I've had several other people start their own, blindly creating their own versions. I have found it gives people a bit of anxiety...giving up control of where things may go and trusting that they'll be happy at the end of it all. I think that's where the beauty lies. I think it's a direct representation of life.

Sizes
- Each square is 2.75 inches (7 cm)
- The final dimensions will be: 55 inches (140 cm) x 55 inches (140 cm)
- If you use fingering weight you could keep crocheting your square until you reach the approximate size of the worsted weight version.
- If you use DK weight yarn I would suggest checking your size after completing your rounds to see if you're close to the 2.75 in (7cm).
Supplies Needed
- Crochet Hook: 4.5mm/G+ – adjust your hook size if you adjust the yarn weight. I love using Furls Hooks. They are so comfortable and I don’t get stressed hands or wrists like I once did. Use the code HOOK15 for 15% off. You may need to adjust your hook size if you use a different weight of yarn.
- Yarn: I am using a worsted weight yarn. There are no rules here. Use whatever weight you'd like to use.
- Colors Used and Yardage:
- Each worsted weight square requires approximately 4.7g/10 yards
- In a 100g skein I would say you could comfortably get 22 squares
- The neutral yarn I chose for this blanket is my Quartz color. I believe I will end up needing 4.5 100g skeins and should have a little leftover - maybe I'll use it for a simple border.
- For the stars: You will need approximately 80 yards (73m)/38g
- I use the rest of a 100g skein from the star squares for squares throughout the blanket - so plan on using 12 full 100g skeins
- You'll need 52 additional squares. I am using leftover yarn from my Battle Song quilt, which is using 2023 yarn club colors, for these 52 squares. Stash dive and use whatever you can find.
Stitch Abbreviations
- CC – Contrasting Color
- Ch – Chain
- DC – Double Crochet
- MC – Main color
- Slst – Slip Stitch
Important Notes
- When creating half and half squares, always start with the same color. I always begin with my contrasting color first and use my neutral second.
- I am doing a combination or joining as I go and using the whip stitch. These two methods look the same. Alternatively, I love the mattress stitch. It leaves an invisible seam.
-
For the whip stitch I use lengths that are around two - three times the distance of the space you are needing to sew together. Tip for all whip stitch seaming: Do not pull your whip stitch tight or your pieces are going to cinch. Check your work periodically to make sure you’re not pulling too tightly.
-
For the join as you go, here is a video tutorial from Hooked by Robin – Solid Granny Square Joining.
-
For the mattress stitch here is a helpful video by “Play Hooky with Me” for how to do an invisible mattress stitch if that’s the route you want to take: How to do an Invisible Join for a Crochet Blanket
Chart Plan Notes
- If you take a close look you will see that there is actually a pattern to the multicolor squares. This is just a color placement suggestion for anyone that likes a little direction. If you'd rather just randomly place things that's also totally fine.
- As an additional guide for your multicolor squares: Colors A - L will require 12 squares each. Colors M - P require 5 squares. Colors Q - X require 4 squares.
- Your Star Squares are done in colors A - L.

You can find the Ad-Free PDF Pattern HERE
Pattern
Half and Half Squares
Notes:
- Be sure you always begin with the same color. I start each of mine with the contrasting color first.
- Here is a helpful video from “Pattern Princess” to show you how I created my squares:Half Square Triangle Solid Granny Square Pattern
- Leave the yarn you are no longer using to the back of your work.
To begin: With your Main Color, make a Magic Circle (or chain 3, join in a circle).
Round 1: Ch 3, work 2 DC, Ch 2, 3 DC into the magic circle, Ch 1. Pick up your CC by pulling your CC through your Ch 1 of your MC, leaving a tail of your CC to weave in later. This counts as your second chain for this corner space. Also be sure you leave your working CC to the back. Continue working with your CC stitches into the magic circle: *3DC, Ch 2* repeat once more. Join to the top of your beginning Ch 3. If you used a Magic Circle, pull your tail tight to close the hole. (3 DC on each side and one Ch 2 in each corner).
Round 2: Turn your work and slst into the Ch 2 space. (Ch 3, DC) into the Ch 2 space. DC into each stitch across. (2 DC, Ch 2, 2 DC) into the Ch 2 space. DC into each stitch across. 2 DC, Ch 1 in the Ch 2 space. Drop your CC, leaving your working yarn in the front this time. With MC, pull color through the CC ch 1 (this counts as your second chain). 2 DC in the Ch 2 space. DC in each stitch across. (2 DC, Ch 2, 2 DC) in the Ch 2 space. DC in each stitch across. (2 DC, Ch 2) in the Ch 2 space. Join to the top of your beginning Ch 3. (7 DC on each side and one Ch 2 in each corner).
Round 3: Turn your work and slst into the Ch 2 space. (Ch 3, DC) into the Ch 2 space. DC into each stitch across. (2 DC, Ch 2, 2 DC) into the Ch 2 space. DC into each stitch across. (2 DC, Ch 1) in the Ch 2 space. Drop your MC, leaving your working yarn to the back this time. With CC, pull color through the MC ch 1 (this counts as your second chain). 2 DC in the Ch 2 space. DC in each stitch across. (2 DC, Ch 2, 2 DC) in the Ch 2 space. DC in each stitch across. (2 DC, Ch 2) in the Ch 2 space. Join to the top of your beginning Ch 3. (11 DC on each side and one Ch 2 in each corner).
Round 4: Repeat Round 2. (15 DC on each side and one Ch 2 in each corner). Fasten off. Weave in your ends.
Solid Squares
To begin: With your Main Color, make a Magic Circle (or chain 3, join in a circle).
Round 1: Ch 3, work 2 DC, Ch 2, 3 DC into the magic circle, Ch 2. *3DC, Ch 2* repeat once more. Join to the top of your beginning Ch 3. If you used a Magic Circle, pull your tail tight to close the hole. (3 DC on each side and one Ch 2 in each corner).
Round 2: Turn your work and slst into the Ch 2 space. (Ch 3, DC) into the Ch 2 space. DC into each stitch across. *(2 DC, Ch 2, 2 DC) into the Ch 2 space. DC into each stitch across* repeat two more times. (2 DC, Ch 2) into the Ch 2 space. Join to the top of your beginning Ch 3. (7 DC on each side and one Ch 2 in each corner).
Round 3: Turn your work and slst into the Ch 2 space. (Ch 3, DC) into the Ch 2 space. DC into each stitch across. *(2 DC, Ch 2, 2 DC) into the Ch 2 space. DC into each stitch across* repeat two more times. (2 DC, Ch 2) in the Ch 2 space. Join to the top of your beginning Ch 3. (11 DC on each side and one Ch 2 in each corner).
Round 4: Repeat Round 2. (15 DC on each side and one Ch 2 in each corner).
Fasten off. Leave a long tail if you are planning on using the mattress stitch. This will allow you to use the tail to attach to your adjoining squares.